Dunedin to Wanaka

On my last full day in Dunedin (Wednesday the 20^th) I finally did a touristy thing and took a tour out to the Otago peninsula. It was another “return” for me, as I had visited the peninsula during my first ever week in NZ more than six years ago.

My lasting memory of that excursion was a view from Lanarch castle that had reduced me to tears. It was really neat to revisit the same site and discover that little had changed, and that my memory had served me quite well.

The Otago Peninsula

There were only three of us on our little tour (really, this is a great time of year to visit) and we were brought to the above mentioned Lanarch Castle, the Royal Albatross Centre, and Nature’s Wonders Naturally in rapid succession.

In the 10 whole minutes at Lanarch Castle I took a few dozen photos (thank goodness for digital photography) and raced back to the bus.

Lanarch Castle

Cool sculpture in the award-winning gardens in front of the castle.  it brings to mind someone hunched over into the crook of their arm. 

In the 15 minutes we had at the Albatross Centre, I took all of five – one tres cheezy staged shot of myself looking wistfully out to sea, one of the only albatross that I saw, and three of the HUGE flock of seagulls (“meet a girl like you-ou-ou”). It was a bit boring, and smelly, frankly. Apparently if you pay to tour the grounds you get to see them nesting, which I’m sure is much cooler – alas, time and money was not on my side.

Camera?  What camera?

The highlight of the day was, bar none, the Nature’s Wonders Naturally. Owned by a family of sheep farmers, the land occupied by the company is home to stunning views of the sea, a healthy colony of seals and not one, but two kinds of penguins – the little blue penguin, which stand at about 25cm tall, and the very rare yellow-eyed penguin. Squeee!

To navigate the somewhat rugged terrain, we were bundled onto eight-wheel drive vehicles and given attractive green ponchos so we blended in better with the landscape. As we jostled over bumps, splashed through puddles, I was giggling like a little girl. Of course, my enjoyment of the excursion wasn’t hampered in any way by the fact that our driver and guide was an attractive redheaded kiwi (a weakness of mine).

These are apparently a Canadian design.  Who knew?

The seals were cute and chill – some five-month-old pups were sleeping not five feet from the path while others frolicked in the shallow water. The penguins were cute too, if a little inactive. They’re nesting at the moment, and those who weren’t sitting on the nests were out hunting. Still. PENGUINS!

A yellow eyed penguin.  Too bad it's not in focus.  It was a fair ways away.  These little guys are quite nervous and are known to have heart attacks if people get too close.  so sad.

Sleepy seal pup and playful seal pup. they were cute. 

Penguin beach.  The (hot) guide said that no human has been on that beach in 10 years, so the penguins are pretty chill.

A little blue penguin.  He was no more than 5 feet from me.  These guys aren;t too bothered by humans, so we could get really close without disturbing him.

Wednesday was significant for another reason – I voluntarily ate fish. The guide convinced me to try the blue cod fish and chips (or, as kiwis say it “fush und chups”) at this dingy little takeaway shop in town. Lo and behold, it was pretty good. Don’t expect me to be chomping on lobster or oysters anytime soon, but I may indulge in some more deep-fried fishy goodness from time to time.

Thursday began dull and grey in Dunedin: perfect weather for spending in a bus. Luckily, that was just what was on the agenda. I boarded the Atomic bus at 10:00 and over four and half hours, the bus wound its way through a few mountain ranges and much rain. As if like magic though, as we pulled into Wanaka, Mother Nature shrugged off her dark, wet shroud and showed off the bright blue sky she'd been concealing.

I'm here.  You're not.  Neener neener neener.

Ahhhhhhhhhhh…Wanaka.

A little history here. When I was here some 18 months ago, my usual travel companion and I could not stop singing – to the tune of Adam Sandler’s Hanukah song from his days on SNL – “tell your friend Veronica, that I’m in Wan-a-kaaaa!” It’s been running through my head for the past two days.

Anywhoodle. Wanaka. Is. Beautiful. The fact that I’m emphasising this says a lot when you consider the sheer plethora of panoramas this country has on offer. It’s awesome. Trust me.

An oft-photographed tree just casually growing in the middle of a big lake.  No biggie.

Wanaka is often overlooked by thrill and party seekers for nearby Queenstown, the self-proclaimed Adventure Capital of the World. Too bad for those who skip it, cause they’re missing out.

Nestled on the shore of Lake Wanaka, at the base of a bunch of mountains and near skiing and hiking in Mount Aspiring National Park, the town is decidedly a touristy spot, but not in a gaudy, showy way. There are a few chain stores in town – Flight Centre, Paper Plus, New World – but there are no McDonalds, Starbucks, or Burger Kings to be seen. The vast majority of businesses are independent and quaint.

The whole town is dominated by the snow-capped mountains to the West, and I’ve spent much of my time just gazing at them in reverence.

Other things I’ve gotten up to since I’ve been here:

• Gone to see Inception at the kooky Cinema Paradiso where the seats are couches, chairs, and even a car. Great venue. Great flick.

In Cinema Paradiso during intermission.  That brown lump on the napkin on the pillow next to me is the best cookie ever.

• Watched the parade that signals the official opening of WanakaFest, a community festival going on this long weekend (Labour day is Monday).

The wanaka dancers do their thing in this tiny and cute parade.

• Hiked up Mount Iron, which at only 750m in height is dwarfed by the many mountains around.

Mount Iron seen from the other side of the lake.

• Visited the Rippon Winery – the home of some of the best wine I’ve ever had.

At $16.50 a bottle, this is the most expensive wine I've ever bought in NZ (yes, I can be cheap). It's worth it though.  It's delicious. 

• Took a nap by the lake.
• Done my homework K
• Found a job of sorts.  For the next week I'll be spending two hours a day cleaning an old gym that's been converted into a 12-room lodging.  In exchange, I'll have a free place to stay.  Should be OK. I start tomorrow, so I hope it's OK.  I'll be sure to gripe if it's not :)

One final picture: I got to feed an orphaned lamb at the place where I saw the penguins.  How cute is that?